2007 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel AP 12

The Haags’ 2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Auslese Gold Capsule A.P. #12 again concentrates aromas and flavors of peach and pink grapefruit; displays alluring creaminess along with delicacy and refinement; and finishes with startling purity of fresh fruit and sheer length. The work of botrytis has here been accomplished with no obvious signs but is suggested by the wine’s sheer concentration. The efficacious acidity and striking sense of lift here also suggest a measure of tiny, spontaneously desiccated, and relatively botrytis-free berries. Oliver and Wilhelm Haag have done it again, scoring consistent and sensational success throughout their range. And if 2007 cannot – like 2006 – be compared with any iconic vintage of yore (in 2006’s case, 1953) so much the more exciting. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463.