2017 Domaine des Comtés Lafon Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru

The 2017 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru is adorned with a harmonious bouquet of subtle tinned pineapple and fresh pear aromas, then flint-like scents creeping up on you. The palate is dense and powerful, a little rounder than expected, and yet its richness is effortlessly offset by a core of mineralité. One gets the impression that this Perrières may well close down in the next few months, so either commit infanticide or have patience.

The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières is performing well from bottle, wafting from the glass with aromas of orange blossom, citrus zest, pear, almond paste and freshly baked bread. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and elegant, with a textural and enveloping attack, a ripe core of fruit, lively balancing acids and a precise, nicely defined finish. This is a lively but expressive young Perrières that will offer a broad drinking window.

One-third new oak. Barrel sample. Elegant and pure on the nose. Pure, intense citrus fruit. Perfect tension and freshness on the palate. With a stony mineral quality to rein in the fruit. Moreish, deep and full of spicy energy. Revved up with the handbrake on at the moment. (JH)