2014 Ao Yun Cabernet Sauvignon
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Tasting notes
The Cabernet Franc shines through on the nose, delivering a fragrant lift, smoke and mineral notes; almost St Emilion-esque. The palate is packed with lush black fruit and a clean, refreshing acidity that further heightens the sense of vibrancy. Softer and riper tannins than the first vintage, but there is serious power, rich concentration and a lovely mouthfeel. Exemplary balance and good length on the finish. Three months in earthenware jars and a ratcheting up of the barrel influence have really enhanced the complexity. Decanter’s John Stimpfig said of Ao Yun’s first vintage that to his palate "it had elements of Napa, Bierzo, the Languedoc and even Bordeaux", the same is very much true of the latest release; it is truly unique and near impossible to place.
The Cabernet Franc shines through on the nose, delivering a fragrant lift, smoke and mineral notes; almost St Emilion-esque. The palate is packed with lush black fruit and a clean, refreshing acidity that further heightens the sense of vibrancy. Softer and riper tannins than the first vintage, but there is serious power, rich concentration and a lovely mouthfeel. Exemplary balance and good length on the finish. Three months in earthenware jars and a ratcheting up of the barrel influence have really enhanced the complexity. Decanter’s John Stimpfig said of Ao Yun’s first vintage that to his palate "it had elements of Napa, Bierzo, the Languedoc and even Bordeaux", the same is very much true of the latest release; it is truly unique and near impossible to place. Sep 2017, FINE+RARE
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Second vintage and the step up is clear - already standing among the best Chinese wines that I have tasted, and an amazing achievement for only the second year. Soft plum in colour, just beginning to show its 8 years of age. There's a touch of reduction on the first nose, with plenty of concentrated damson and black cherry fruit to sink into on the palate, along with sage, clove, saffron, fennel, liqourice, graphite, crushed rocks. Sleek and enjoyable, with the fresh acidities of a mountain wine coming through more clearly as it ages than I found when it was first bottled. This was tasted as part of the vertical, then drunk again later over food and it was even better - strongly suggest seeking out to see just what can be produced on this site with a bit of bottle ageing. Harvest lasted from September 14 (Xidang Village, 2100m) through to October 21 (Adong Village, 2,600m), significantly earlier than 2013 after a warmer growing season, with low yields of just 15hl/h. First wine made in the new cellar located in Adong Village. 50% new oak for ageing.
The 2014 Ao Yun is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. With its deep ruby appearance, the 2014 Ao Yun shows dark, brooding cassis and leafy bramble fruit overlaid by marked toasted new oak and a touch of development, now at around five years of evolution in a vintage that looks as though it will evolve more readily than the more robust 2015 and 2016 wines. That said, on the palate, the 2014 is still relatively youthful with a ripe core of dark fruit, distinct new-oak notes of clove, smoke, vanilla and toast, ripe chewy tannins and some uplifting acidity. This seems more savory in style overall than either the 2015 or 2016 vintages and a step up in quality from the inaugural 2013 Ao Yun. Still needs time, if approachable now.
Straight from the bottle: This was the earliest vintage of the three first. All grapes were picked by the end of October! A warm, dry year with a small crop – although this was the first year they deliberately started to lower yields. Slightly paler rim than the 2013. A bit edgy and bony – all elbows. Double decanted two hours earlier: Much smoother and more settled. Refined but a bit tight. The malo was done in tank and resulted in a bit of reduction. (JR)
About the producer
Ao Yun – translating literally as “flying above the clouds” – is China’s most famous wine estate. Owned by Moët Hennessy, the aim was to produce a world-class fine wine that was the first Himalayan “grand cru”. The first vintage was 2013, released in 2016.