2012 Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru
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Tasting notes
Aromas of lemon zest, menthol, crushed stone and saline oyster shell. Fat and rich, with strong crushed rock and smoky silex flavors contributing to an impression of inner-mouth perfume. Wonderfully fine-grained peach fruit shows a compelling sweetness. Not particularly closed for young Chablis, but the very long, powerful finish suggests that there's more ahead for this grand cru.
Critic scores
Allen Meadows, Burghound
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
Smoky, perfumed – herbal and floral. Fantastic density on the length – real persistence of fruit. Real pith and grip on the palate. Long finish. Excellent. (RH)
(assembled two weeks before my visit after a late malolactic fermentation): Hazy pale yellow. Piquant aromas of peach, lemon oil and zest, mint and ginger. Very rich, tactile and concentrated; not quite as pristine or harmonious today as the Montee de Tonnerre but this youthfully taut wine possesses more underlying sweetness and powerful flinty minerality. The very long finish dusts the palate with spices. This will need several years to organize itself. (The 2012 Vaudesir and Grenouilles were still in older barrels and not yet assembled at the time of my visit.)
Once again, there is enough wood to notice but not really enough to materially detract from the broad-ranging nose of white flowers, citrus zest, oyster shell and mineral reduction. There is similar richness and power to the middle weight plus flavors that possess slightly better definition if not quite the volume of the Valmur. There is good energy to the saline and relatively dry finish that avoids overt austerity. I would suggest holding this for 7 to 10 years. Tasted: Oct 15, 2013. Drink: 2019+