2008 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny

Smoky black tea, pungent brown spices, and tart cherry inform a Barthod 2008 Chambolle-Musigny of enervating brightness yet incipient textural richness. Tart and pungent in its lasting finish, this will no doubt strike some tasters as leaning toward austerity, but I anticipate an exuberant, highly versatile and stimulating performer at table over the next half dozen years if not longer. “Especially in a challenging vintage,” notes Barthod, “my village Chambolle benefits from originating in so many and such diverse locations.” Ghislaine Barthod expressed elation at a 2008 collection that she though evoked the “tres Chambolle” ideals of finesse, animation, and brightness. With the exception of her generic and village lots that were still in barrel then, I tasted all of these wines assembled from tank in February. (They were destined for April or May bottling). Barthod is decidedly less overjoyed by recent yields. “The last three vintages have brought really small quantities: in 2006 we had the hail; 2007 required a severe trie; and in 2008 – besides a bit more hail (principally on non-cru sites) – we had berries with very little pulp or juice,” she says, adding that “in 2008 you had to be really vigilant and spray (against fungal pests) at just the right moment. One day too late and you were in trouble. We ended up with high acidity but balance, good natural alcohol, and enough richness.” (Not only is Barthod one of Burgundy’s most consistent performers, she’s one grower you can count on to be spot-on – even if that means ruthlessly honest – in assessing her own performance. Unfortunately, shortage of time precluded my tasting her 2007s.) Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Full, bright red. Pretty aromas of raspberry and flowers. Juicy, intensely flavored and perfumed; with its sappy acidity, this really stimulates the salivary glands. Finishes with suave tannins and noteworthy energy. As strong an early showing for this straight village wine as I can remember. Of course, this wine had the advantage of having been racked at the beginning of September, whereas the premier crus had been racked just a couple weeks before my early November visit.

Thick and sweet and rich. Very lively. But very earthbound. Chewy and solid. (JR)