2008 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Vignolo

Dark ruby. Savoury, stony nose. Hugely appealing but perhaps a little less complex than San Giuseppe. With aeration hints of dried fruit. Succulent juicy fruit framed by firm but ripe tannins. Tangy gripping finish. Already delicious. (WS)

Sweet, silky and exceptionally well-balanced, the 2008 Barolo Riserva Vignolo is all about texture and harmony. Floral notes meld into dark red stone fruits, plums, cinnamon, tobacco and orange peel. Today the aromas are quite closed, the result of the recent bottling, but all the elements are in place for the 2008 to develop into a gorgeous Barolo. Here, it is the wine's purity above all else that is striking. With time in the glass, the aromas start to gradually open up, releasing an incredibly expressive array of floral and savory overtones. There is so much to look forward to.

Castiglione Falletto. Lacklustre concentrated ruby. A little vegetal and herbal at first but it may be just reductive. Aeration releases full-blown horse-saddle notes. Youthful concentration but not very bright. Big coating tannins. (WS)