2006 Château Rayas Château de Fonsalette Côtes du Rhône Rouge Reserve

Medium red. Spicy, inviting bouquet of strawberry and redcurrant, with sexy notes of potpourri and cola. Sappy, finely etched red berry flavors are deepened by cola and sassafras qualities. Very complex Cotes du Rhone with excellent finishing clarity and thrust.

The 2006 Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone exhibits meaty, herbal, tapenade, pepper, animal fur, and damp earth-like notes. It is soft, round, lush, and best consumed over the next 10+ years. After going through a transitional period after Jacques Reynaud died in 1997, it is safe to say that his nephew, Emmanuel Reynaud, has returned this venerable estate to its previous level of high quality. While Chateauneuf du Pape is a warm appellation, Rayas is situated in a cool micro-climate, and is undoubtedly not an easy property to maintain. It is also known for its sandy soils, which are in total contrast to the rock-strewn plateau a half mile to the east, west, and south. Two utterly profound Rayas Chateauneuf du Papes have been produced recently, the 2005 and 2007. 2007 is a superb vintage at Chateau Rayas Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Cinsault component: Wild, gamey and expressive, with fresh raspberry and cherry aromas and flavors. Quite elegant, with good juicy length. "This always gives finesse to the blend," Reynaud told me. Grenache component: Very pale red. Explosive strawberry and raspberry scents, with spicy red fruit preserve flavors, silky tannins and excellent persistence. Proves that weight isn't necessary for flavor impact-much less deep color.