2006 Kapcsándy Family Winery Roberta's Reserve State Lane Vineyard
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Tasting notes
Bright medium ruby. Reticent aromas of medicinal dark berries, licorice, tar and violet. Tight-grained wine with sound acidity but not the fleshiness or layered texture of most of the later vintages. More pretty and elegant than particularly powerful or deep, but still an amazing performance for four-year-old vines. Shows better integration of its oak component than the '05 Roberta's. Best today on the firm, chocolatey finish, where the tannins are still a bit clenched. There's an element of delicacy here that I like. (For his part, Kapcsándy describes 2006 as "an elegant vintage, but with a lot of hot weather in July.") (14.1% alcohol; 100% new French oak)
Critic scores
Robert Parker
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
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The 2006 Roberta’s Reserve State Lane Vineyard (94% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc; 250 cases produced) is potentially the finest Merlot being made in California, although it has several noteworthy competitors, particularly Pahlmeyer. The Roberta’s Reserve exhibits classic Merlot notes of chocolate fudge and mocha intertwined with black currants, sweet black cherries, and hints of smoke and forest floor. The complex aromatics are accompanied by an opulent, lush wine displaying terrific definition. Approachable now, it should last for 25-30 years. This is a superb line-up of wines from Lou Kapcsandy, who emigrated from Hungary to set up a construction business in Seattle, which he gave up for his true love - making wines along with his wife, Bobbi, and son, Louis. They were fortunate to be able to purchase Beringer’s State Lane Vineyard in Yountville, and have it completely replanted by Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer. They then brought in Bordelais Denis Malbec to help produce the wines, which have gone from strength to strength. The 2006s are magnificent, but may be eclipsed by the 2007s. Tel. (707) 948-3100; Fax (707) 948-3106
(14.1% alcohol; a selection of the most structured lots of merlot) Bright medium ruby. Captivating, slightly exotic aromas of blackberry, lavender, dark chocolate and road tar. Sweet, broad and lush, with a pronounced bitter chocolate character sexed up by flowers and fresh herbs. Compared to the estate's flagship cabernet, this one finishes with softer, finer-grained tannin and more early appeal.
(a 94/6 blend of merlot and cabernet franc) Good medium ruby. Varietally accurate aromas of blackberry, tar, bitter chocolate, graphite and violet. Black fruit and spice flavors are given precision and lift by lively acidity, with an element of dark chocolate adding sex appeal. This has a pliancy in the middle but is nonetheless a very firmly structured merlot-based wine with the backbone for a slow evolution in bottle.