2003 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair La Romanée Grand Cru
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Tasting notes
This was only the second year this great vineyard was back in Liger-Belair’s hands after its long sojourn chez Bouchard Père et Fils. Sweet and medicinal with an extra charge of density – clearly grand cru quality. Despite the notorious heat of the vintage, this wine is not lacking freshness nor vibrancy. It benefited in 2003 from the fact that the rows in La Romanée, unlike those of some of its very famous neighbours, run north-south. (Incidentally, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair was very entertaining during my most recent visit there in November 2015 about his attempts to interest various UK merchants in this ‘new’ domaine with such great holdings. I wouldn’t say he bore grudges, but he certainly found a contrast between J&B’s reaction and that of some others.) (JR)
Critic scores
Neal Martin
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Tasted at the La Romanée vertical at Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair. The 2003 La Romanée Grand Cru bottled by Comte Liger-Belair has a similar nose to the Bouchard Père bottling, perhaps with just a touch of fruité: plush strawberry, candied orange peel and Morello cherries, an underlying mineralité developing with time but also one of the few that shows a touch of brettanomyces. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannin, a little animally and savory, almost gamy with a little rusticity toward the finish. I have a slight preference of this compared to the Bouchard bottling. Having said that, it is not in the same class as the best subsequent vintages. Tasted June 2015.
The 2003 La Romanée (Bouchard Père et Fils) is forward and fruit-driven in style, yet it has also retained good freshness for the year. Most of the wine's appeal is up front, as the wine loses a touch of intensity on the finish. A host of sweet red cherry, plum, smoke, mint and spice notes meld into the supple, racy finish.
Monopole. Bright crimson. Heady, gorgeous and utterly voluptuous. Cocktail of rich spice and superbly ripe fruit, but with great freshness. Unusual in both this line up and in the context of 2003. Clearly one of that small but convincing proportion of top-quality 2003 red burgundies. (JR)
About the producer
Since its rebirth in 2000, Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair has quickly become one of the most highly sought-after producers in Vosne-Romanée. The most prized wine from the estate is their monopole Grand Cru La Romanée.