2000 Château Fombrauge

Magrez’s first vintage, Michel Rolland in post . Still deep crimson with hardly any development at the rim. Full, ripe, sweet and a bit gamey/furry – not the freshest nose, even a little overripe? Thick and sweet with lots of acidity on the finish. Not harmonious. Almost a little New Worldy on the finish. Drying tannins and a bit of alcohol. I don’t think this is the purest, best balanced 2000. (JR)

Deep crimson. Dusty warm nose – pretty evolved. Soft and gentle. Lighter than most 2000s. The fruit may be starting to fade giving a slight “faded glory” impression on the nose and mid palate but then there are very insistent tannins. I wonder whether this wine will ever be as well balanced as the 2001? (JR)

A revelation, this stunning wine (also reasonably priced) has turned out to be even better than I thought. Opaque purple-colored, with gorgeous ripeness and richness, a big, sweet mid-palate, and a seamless finish revealing loads of fruit, chocolate, glycerin, and ripe tannin, this opulently-styled 2000 will have few detractors. It is hard not to be totally seduced by this effort. Kudos to proprietor Bernard Magrez and his omnipresent oenologist, Michel Rolland. Bravo! Anticipated maturity: Now-2015.