2005 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard

If the Dr. Crane Vineyard is La Mission Haut-Brion, the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard is a classic first-growth and, for Napa, a Pauillac-like offering. It has a dense purple color and is as youthful as the Dr. Crane, but exhibiting less minerality, with more classic crème de cassis, wild mountain berry fruit, and hints of tobacco and spring flowers as well as licorice. As often is the case, every nook and cranny of the palate seems to be filled with wondrous flavors of red and black fruits and spices in a silky, full-bodied, opulent style. This is a beauty, still young, with as much upside as the Beckstoffer Dr. Crane. Nevertheless, this is a slightly bigger wine, even though the alcohol level is about the same as the Dr. Crane (15.3%). This beauty is approachable, but another five years will reward with even greater pleasure, and 20-25 years of cellaring is well within its potential. Tel. (707) 824-9879

Dark purple. Hugely aromatic nose offers cherry, blackcurrant, cured tobacco, roasted coffee and licorice. Dense and weighty but fresh, with energetic red and dark fruit flavors, chewy texture and a wallop of vanilla on the back end. Combines depth, power and energy deftly, with superb finishing clarity and thrust. This won't let go of the palate.

Saturated ruby. Ripe, powerful and vibrant aromas of blackcurrant, cherry pit, licorice and tobacco. Picks up herbal and floral notes with air and these continue on the palate, which offers deep, concentrated dark berry and cherry flavors. Moderately tannic and quite spicy, finishing with impressive depth and thrust. This is superb.