2005 Kapcsàndy Cabernet Sauvignon State Lane Vineyard Grand Vin

Deep, bright ruby. Complex aromas of dark berries, licorice, dried herbs, lavender and tobacco, plus a mellow plum note that's likely from the 14% Merlot component. Sweet, deep, densely packed and rich, conveying a chocolatey ripeness to its slightly roasted yet lively dark fruit flavors. Impressively large-scaled and mouthfilling if not as complex or delineated as more recent vintages. Here the tannins are nobler than those of the Roberta's, saturating the palate without blocking the fruit. When I first tasted the Grand Vin and Roberta's Reserve from bottle, I preferred the Roberta's for its seamlessness. But the Grand Vin is evolving more slowly and retains more energy today. (14.3% alcohol; 100% new French oak)

The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon State Lane Vineyard, which was 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc, reveals loads of licorice, graphite, and blackcurrants in a sexy, toasty style with hints of earth, loamy soil notes and a floral underpinning. The wine is fragrant, with great intensity, a full-bodied mouthfeel, and almost a Mouton-Rothschild-like crème de cassis element. This wine is drinking well now, but will continue to evolve for another two decades.