2006 Bouchard Père & Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

From the same grower as their Chapelle-Chambertin, Bouchard's 2006 Chambertin Clos de Beze displays the classic rose petal, licorice, and black fruit aromas of the site; presents a satiny, palate impression underlain by stony, peaty, and tactile suggestions of things mineral that persist into a memorably mysterious and interactive finish. Here are abundant yet entirely healthy and fine-grained tannins that – when taken with the wines richness of fruit and fascinating suggestions of things carnal and mineral – promises rewards if one waits to revisit for 2-3 years and then plans to savor for another half dozen. Director Philippe Prost emphasized the importance of flexible and surgical picking (with a crew numbering upwards of 300) and getting his crop to Bouchard's battery of presses within two hours via a fleet of mini-vans. He insists that relatively little triage was necessary on the domaine vineyards (as opposed to those under contract) and the estate wines are certainly predictably stronger as a group. (I have generally mentioned in the notes that follow which wines are from Bouchard's domaine and which from contract fruit, but have explicitly noted this as part of a wine's description, only if there are two versions of the same appellation within the present portfolio.) The fruit was crushed very gently and the wines racked only once – at 10-14 months, than usual – explains Prost, in order to guard against exposed or drying tannins, a policy which my tastings suggest was generally successful. Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6767