2015 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Meal Blanc

Lurid yellow-gold. Penetrating aromas of ripe, mineral-accented citrus and pit fruits are complicated by hints of chalky minerals, saffron and chamomile. Juicy, smoky and deeply concentrated but lithe on the palate, offering densely packed peach nectar, pear liqueur, Meyer lemon and buttered toast flavors that show superb drive and focus. The mineral note repeats emphatically on the incisive, smoke-laced finish, which lingers with outstanding persistence.

Brilliant yellow. An exotically perfumed bouquet evokes poached pear, nectarine, vanilla, iodine and candied ginger, and a smoky mineral quality builds as the wine stretches out. Sappy, seamless and densely packed, offering palate-staining orchard and pit fruit flavors braced by a spine of dusty minerality and a hint of orange pith. Hangs on impressively on the mineral-laced finish, leaving behind smoky lees, iodine and ripe citrus fruit notes.

Another perfect wine is the 2015 Ermitage le Meal Blanc. The most decadent, unctuous and layered in the lineup, with to-die-for notes of white currants, toasted nuts, celery seed and licorice, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a huge mid-palate and a refreshing, pure, yet blockbuster finish that just won’t quit. If I had to pick a desert island white, this might be it.