2010 Vilmart et Cie Vintage Coeur de Cuvée 1er Cru

Disgorged in February 2017, this rendition of Vilmart's 2010 Coeur de Cuvée is still very tightly wound, unfurling in the glass with aromas of lemon oil, crisp green apples, white flowers and subtle hints of praline that has almost entirely integrated its framing of recently used wood. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, broad and vinous, with superb concentration, an electric line of acidity and a deep, tight-knit core, concluding with a long, tongue-tinglingly chalky finish. This is a superb Coeur de Cuvée, but it will need more time on cork to realize all its potential.

One of the things I admire most about Laurent Champs is his ability to turn out not just good – but great – wines in challenging years in which other growers struggle. Vibrant, nuanced and breathtakingly beautiful, the 2010 is simply mesmerizing. A kaleidoscope of aromas, flavors and textures dazzles all the senses in a taut, vibrant Champagne that will stop readers dead in their tracks. The 2010 is every bit that good. A few years in the cellar should help the wine soften a bit, but it is incredibly beautiful today. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. Disgorged: February, 2017.

The 2010 Coeur de Cuvée is marvelous. Deep, dense and powerful, the 2010 packs a serious punch. Slate, crushed rocks, white pepper, orchard fruit, mint and green pear give the 2010 its bright, vibrant personality. A hint of reduction adds freshness and complexity without being dominating. Laurent Champs nailed the vintage with this superb Coeur de Cuvée. The long, persistent finish is a thing of beauty. I can’t wait to taste the 2010 with a little more bottle age. Even today, though, it is impressive, especially within the context of a year that had its share of challenges. Disgorged January 2017. Dosage is 7 grams per liter.