2019 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero

The 2019 Barolo Monvigliero is produced entirely from whole clusters and is a pale ruby, with a spicy and lifted perfume revealing layers of cinnamon, red berries, tarragon, and white pepper. Medium-bodied, with ultrafine tannins and a long finish, this is highly refined, with a Burgundian aesthetic of purity and beautiful concentration. A singular and exceptional wine, drink it over the next few decades. Based in Verduno, Fabio Burlotto leads the estate named after his great-great-grandfather. The holdings currently consist of 17 hectares in total, predominantly in Verduno, and a small portion outside of the commune with parcels in Cannubi (Valletta) in Barolo and most recently in Castelletto in Monforte d’Alba. In 2018, he produced his first vintage from 50-year-old vines at the higher part of their parcel in Castelletto, while the lower section was replanted and will see its first harvest this year. Although anything is possible, the vision at the moment is that this fruit will become a part of their Classic Barolo. Aclivi is a selection of the best part of each vineyard site, with the traditional blended style of Barolo in mind, and stands in as a substitute for a Riserva bottling. Usually, the grapes are destemmed for the Aclivi, while the Monvigliero is fermented with whole clusters. Historically, Fabio’s grandfather was fermenting all of his Barolo with whole clusters before 1967. When his father took over after he died in 1968, he began destemming the grapes until the 1982 vintage, when they moved back to utilizing whole clusters for the Monvigliero, which Fabio continues to this day. There is a great commitment and dedication to the other varietals of the region, with only half of the total production being Nebbiolo and the remaining half Dolcetto, Barbera, Freisa, Pelaverga, and Sauvignon Blanc. Fermentation for the Barolo occurs in 20-year-old open-top French oak containers, with some punching down, but generally a gentle approach. In the cellar, they utilize 30-year-old large French oak casks, and when barrels need to be replaced, only Barbera or Langhe Nebbiolo will go into the new barrels on occasion. The majority of the wines in this report were tasted at the winery with Fabio in March of 2023. The style is marked by lift and energy, with the majority offering an outstanding bouquet of aromatics. They tend to lean toward a Burgundian aesthetic in that they are highly expressive and offer fantastic mineral texture in a medium frame. The indigenous grapes are not to be missed and offer some of the best-hidden gems at an insane value when and if you can find them. Though the US is certainly a major market for wines, Fabio is uniquely committed to having a substantial proportion of his wines distributed in Italy, and I personally intend to have the great fortune to enjoy them while abroad.

The 2019 Barolo Monvigliero is a knock-out. What a wine. Rich and layered in the glass, with striking textural intensity, the 2019 unfurls beautifully with a bit of coaxing. All the elements are so well put together for a young wine. Crushed rose petal, mint, sage, rose petal and sweet pipe tobacco lend striking nuance to this dynamic, vibrant Barolo. The 2019 is quite simply magnificent. Its splendor only grows over time.

Just mid ruby. A stunning nose of stony minerality and deeply perfumed red fruit. Complex, layered and with hints of exotic spice. The supple acidity and the ripe raspberry and cherry fruit build a perfect unity on the palate. Suave finish with finely ground tannins that last and last. Tactile, concentrated and super elegant on the palate at the same time. Endless, perfumed raspberry fruit finish. (WS)