1992 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque

All the single vineyard wines have turned out to be exceptional in 1992, far better than I expected when I tasted them prior to their astonishing 40 month sojourn in 100% new oak casks. These wines are bottled with no fining or filtration, and as Guigal says, "have the lowest SO2 levels measurable in France" - a testament, he believes, to his vinification, elevage in new oak, and, most importantly, the nature of Syrah. The 1992 Cote Rotie La Turque reveals blackcurrant, licorice, and pain grillee-like notes in its sweet, penetrating aromatic profile. It is amazing how this wine has gained weight and richness in cask. It has turned out to be a profound, sweet, rich, opulently-styled wine with no harshness or vegetal aspects. There are layers of silky black fruit gently infused with smoky toast. The wine's low acidity and up-front, forward nature suggest it can be drunk now as well as over the next 12-15 years. One of the other admirable characteristics of a tasting at Guigal is that unlike most wine cellars in Burgundy, Guigal's wines actually taste better after bottling than they do in the cellars. I do not know the reason for this, but Guigal says it is because, "the understanding of how much time a wine needs in either small barrel, tank, or foudre is essential to producing fine wine, and that each vintage and each wine is bottled when I believe it is ready." I should add that his tendency to do a natural bottling for all his reds, in addition to sulphur adjustments that are among the lowest in France, also add to the quality of the bottled wines. I say this because the 1992s are all in bottle, and this vintage has turned out far stronger in bottle than when I first reported on the wines several years ago. It is not a particularly good vintage in the northern Rhone, but Guigal's best wines are the stars of the vintage (along with the luxury cuvees of Chapoutier). Guigal still has a couple of difficult vintages to bottle, but his 1992s have turned out surprisingly strong. In addition, the 1993s are satisfying for the vintage. Following 1993 are two great vintages for Guigal - 1994 and 1995. Importer: Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (818) 548-1200