2011 Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de la Marechale 1er Cru

Plums, tobacco and smoke are some of the notes that inform the 2011 Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de La Maréchale. Underlying veins of graphite and minerals give the 2011 much of its energy. I very much like the sense of contrasts here. At times, the Clos de La Maréchale is wild, while at others it oozes with polish and sophistication. Clos de La Maréchale remains the hidden jewel in Mugnier's range. Because of its relatively large production, it can often be found in the market at a reasonable price without too much effort.

The 2011 Nuits St. Georges Clos de Marechale (red) has a wonderful bouquet with brambly black and red fruit, a touch of truffle and a scent of the sea. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins – unassuming at first, but building in the mouth toward a structured, focused, almost symmetrical finish that delivers a long, satisfying, lightly peppered aftertaste that is classic in style. Excellent. Drink 2015-2025+. I was delighted to return to the home of Frederic Mugnier in the cluster of houses that make up the village of Chambolle, his perhaps the grandest and most imposing. Those are not adjectives that would describe the man himself, ever congenial and humble when I met him at the domaine. I was there to taste his 2012s in barrel, but with some free time before my next appointment he kindly offered to show me his bottled 2011s. This is a producer whose wines I have warmed to in recent years. When I commenced my Burgundy odyssey in the 1990s I felt that his wines were outshone by his neighbor Christophe Roumier and felt that they did not quite reach their full potential. However, in recent vintages Frederic has really honed his style and to me he seems more comfortable with the level of new wood that he is using, even countenancing the idea of a grand cru sans new oak. The wines seem “happier,” as banal as that sounds. But they just sang from bottle with freshness, verve, personality and charm – facets of a great Burgundy wine. Most of these cuvees would have been allocated on release, but I am sure some 2011s remain available and they come highly recommended. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640