2007 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

The estate’s flagship Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is terrific in 2007. Rose petals, red cherries, flowers and spices are all layered together. This isn’t a huge wine, but rather a Brunello of elegance, refinement and pure finesse. The 2007 is a total infant of a wine, but one that holds quite a bit of promise for the future. There is plenty of vintage 2007 radiance, but it would be a shame to open a bottle before its tenth birthday, and that is likely to be on the optimistic side. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2037. Sadly, Franco Biondi Santi passed away just a few short weeks after my most recent visit to Il Greppo. I tasted with Franco Biondi Santi several times over the years. Always impeccably dressed and aristocratic in demeanor, Biondi Santi was unfailingly polite but also passionate in his advocacy of tradition. Biondi Santi would always accompany me throughout the cellar, tasting through all the vintages in barrel, even though advancing age clearly took a toll on his energy level toward the end of his life. Despite his age, Biondi Santi ran Il Greppo with an iron fist. The winery was always clean and well-maintained. Nothing happened at the estate without his explicit approval. I saw that once again first hand when I visited earlier this year. As was the custom when he was ill during one of my tastings, we always spoke by phone before I left the property. Mentally, Biondi Santi was as engaged as always. Today, the young Biondi Santi Brunellos appear less massively tannic and impenetrable than they have in the past. My February tasting ended with the 2012s from cask. For those who haven’t heard, 2012 is a potentially outstanding vintage in Montalcino. If the wine I tasted in cask is as phenomenal in bottle, it will be a fitting conclusion to a brilliant career. Importer: Vision Wine & Spirits, Secaucus, NJ; tel. (201) 210-0400

Mature-looking ruby with orange rim. Seems a little more evolved on the nose than the 2008, with the first notes of tobacco and hint of dried fruit, but has good complexity. Surprisingly high acidity for the vintage and this has a pretty bite on the finish. Still very compact and yet to become multilayered. Patience is needed. (WS)