2012 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Corton Grand Cru

The 2012 Corton boasts considerable energy and cut in its finely-sculpted fruit. Intense saline notes and searing tannins confer brightness. Chalk, white pepper and citrus overtones add lift. The Corton is not a shy wine, but its unbridled power needs to be tamed, something that will only happen with at least a few years in bottle. Actually, make that more than just a few years.

The 2012 Corton Grand Cru was cropped at 11 hectoliters per hectare on September 21. Clear, almost pale in color, the nose exudes that term often appropriated to Burgundy: transparency. The aromatics gradually unfold with light strawberry and red cherry scents, just a hint of sous bois in the background. The palate is crisp on the entry with tart cherries, a fine line of acidity and hints of brown sugar interwoven through the finish that fans out gently. It feels a little foursquare, a "correct" Corton that is perhaps letting the fellow Grand Crus take the limelight. But it will give pleasure over the next 10 to 12 years, and though it might not represent the best Corton since the domaine took over the parcels in 2009, it is perhaps the one that slots in perfectly with the other wines. Just 242 cases produced this year.