1982 Château Figeac

I have had brilliant bottles of the 1982 Figeac, but this wine appears to be characterized by above-average bottle variation. Exhibiting aromas of sweet berry fruit, baking spices and currants, but also a pronounced minty, herbaceous streak, this example is medium-bodied, supple and seamless, with melted tannins and a fragrant finish; but it lacks the texture and completeness of the best bottles. At its best, the 1982 can merit a score two or three points higher, so I was sorry not to land on a great bottle for this report.

The 1982 Figeac is a Saint-Émilion that I have tasted three times in recent months. It seems to be enjoying a second wind. This is powerful on the nose with dark berry fruit, melted tar, tobacco and cedar. There is a sense of "correctness" in this Figeac that is uncommon amongst 1982s. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity; fresh and vibrant with a saline, quite sappy finish, there is a hint of black pepper on the aftertaste. This is an excellent showing, probably at its peak. Tasted blind at the "Two" dinner at Domaine de Chevalier.

Thierry Manoncourt era – he greeted Nutter personally in a three-piece suit. Introduced the host of this tasting Graham Nutter to the life of a vigneron. Dark rust colour. Pale rim. Sweet and rather winningly balanced. Light digestive-biscuit flavour! Transparent. Fresh and clean and very 21st century. Lively and utterly winning. Though it’s far from concentrated and is very defiantly unusual. Long-lived. Healthy and fresh. (JR)