2013 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg Grand Cru

Healthy bright red. Explosive aromas of raspberry, blackberry, smoked plum, mocha, coffee, spices and truffley underbrush; this one hits most of the major red Burgundy food groups. At once tight-grained and wonderfully sweet and generous; the most vibrant of these 2013s to this point, with highly concentrated red fruit and spice flavors staining the palate and building on the aftertaste. Wonderfully sexy wine, but it's hard to imagine that this won't shut down in the bottle.

The 2013 Richebourg Grand Cru was harvested on the afternoon of October 9 and then the following day at just 16.5 hectoliters per hectare, the second lowest after the Echézeaux. It is clearly the elder brother of the 2013 Romanée-Saint-Vivant with intense dark cherry, black plum, tayberry and crushed violet aromas (the latter, perhaps a nod to the Romanée-Saint-Vivant). As with all the domaine's wines this year, it is beautifully defined with beguiling transparency. The palate is medium-bodied, but there is serious weight and presence here. It is struck through with sorbet-like freshness, hints of blood orange tincturing the vibrant red fruit, seguing into a finish with great conviction and confidence, a Richebourg self-aware though not preening about its status. This is a Richebourg to cellar for several years and to enjoy over the next 20 to 25 years (or more). Production is 551 cases. Tasted February 2016.

Mid to dark crimson. Floral violets note. Headier than the Romanée St-Vivant. Great sweet presence in the mouth. More flattering than the RSV – perhaps slightly less ambitious. But an absolutely charming spicy finish. Great seductive layers on the finish. Long peacock’s tail. (JR)