2006 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru

Light ruby. Juicy and fun. A bit less concentrated than the Dugat Py, Tache and Rousseau Chambertins tasted alongside. More youthful. More of a dance. (JR)

The Domaine's 2006 Grands-Echezeaux is altogether less charming and flattering than its ostensibly lesser sibling, leading as it does with fresh red meat and pronouncedly saline, marine mineral notes even in the nose. In the mouth, this is relatively spare but formidably-concentrated and finely-tannic, with cedar, tartly-edged though ripe black fruits, and alkaline mineral notes that carry into a striking, bloodily carnal and almost briny finish. Here is Pinot Noir in its role as a mirror for human flesh and bone. What I see sends shivers down my spine and excites my imagination, but the wine seems to have no intention of flattering me. I didn't encounter another Pinot at all like this in the vintage, and it should be fascinating to follow for a dozen or more years, but unlike the Echezeaux, I would not plan to open any bottles for at least another 3-4. The Domaine de La Romanee-Conti harvested from the 20th-25th of September (commencing with Richebourg) and subjected the crop to rigorous sorting. Understandably, the viticultural meticulousness at this estate as well as its team of some 60 highly-skilled and –motivated pickers paid dividends in the context of a challenging vintage. Director Aubert de Villaine and cellarmaster Bernard Noblet vinified their 2006s with a lesser share of stems and whole clusters, and exposed them to new wood for a shorter period (thereafter racking into older barrels) than the corresponding 2005s. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661