2021 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Saint-Vivant Marey Monge Grand Cru
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Tasting notes
The 2021 Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru is a big step up in this tasting. Unlike the Echézeaux and the Grands Echézeaux, the RSV possesses notable textural depth and resonance, albeit in the smaller-scaled style of the year. Bright red-toned fruit, chalk, mint, white pepper, citrus and cedar fill out the layers effortlessly. The stems are evident, but beautifully woven into the wine's fabric. Traditionally, La Tâche and Romanée-Conti garner the most attention here, but in 2021 Romanée St. Vivant is clearly the most expressive wine, at least today. I would be thrilled to own it.
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Betrand de Villaine describes this as a 'very traditional Romanée-St-Vivant' and as 'incisive'. Part of the vineyard (20 rows), planted on 161-49 rootstock, has been grubbed up because the vines were showing signs of decline and dieback. (Co-director Perrine Fenal pointed out that this is a high-quality rootstock but is now impossible to get hold of.) As a result, he says, the wine is getting better and better though it will take 15 years to see the influence of the new plantings. Vines on average 45 years old. Total production 755 cases of 12. Bottled 12 January 2023. Mid to light ruby. Glorious scent that has the sweet perfume of the Corton as well as the darker and more savoury, lightly stemmy notes of the Grands Échezeaux. Lifted and scented with peony and the merest hint of oak spice. Very tight on the palate, more apparent acidity than in the Échezeaux, the tannins as always so fine but more clenched here, clenching the fruit at the core. Less open yet with the same transparency and purity as all these 2021 wines. The power is felt in the long finish. (JH)
The 2021 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru was picked from September 27 to 29 at 14.5hL/ha and bottled a little earlier than other cuvées on January 12, 2023. It has an adorable bouquet, committing itself to the cranberry and raspberry fruit observed from barrel, perhaps not quite as "exotic" as I wrote then, though there is a hint of wild fennel and Provençal herbs. Outstanding delineation and focus, it opens with controlled fanfare towards the finish and contains an almost effervescent element on the aftertaste. Classy yet one of the Domaine's more sensual offerings. 755 cases produced.
About the producer
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti or simply “DRC” is without doubt the most famous domaine in Burgundy and one of the most famous producers on earth. The Grand Cru vineyard from which it takes its name produces the world’s most expensive wine by a long margin.