2009 Syrah Vellutini Ranch

The 2009 Syrah Vellutini Ranch is another huge, intense wine. Black cherries, plums asphalt, tar and incense all take shape in the glass. Here, too, the sheer intensity of the fruit blurs the definition of site, variety and vintage. As with the Lolita Ranch, there is a note of astringency that is distracting. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2024. Ask the locals in Sonoma who the most meticulous farmers are in the region, and one answer comes back with astonishing frequency -- Martinelli. Originally from Lucca, Italy, Giuseppe Martinelli and his family were attracted to hillside sites that reminded them of their native Tuscany. Ironically, many of the locals thought those places were too steep and hard to work, but time has proven Martinelli had a keen understanding of sites. Today, these are recognized as some of the finest vineyards in California. The Martinelli family still sells most of their grape to other wineries, but they also vinify and bottle a small amount of their production. As always, these are big, rich wines built on opulence. The Martinelli approach seems to work best with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. I find the Syrahs less interesting, as Martinelli’s philosophical approach to harvest very late seems to blur some of the differences among vineyards, which is a shame. That is especially evident in a vintage like 2009, which yielded plenty of richness on its own. The 2010 Zinfandels are also inconsistent, but here it is the huge heat spikes late in the season that compromised the crop and the overall quality of the vintage. Martinelli lost 50% of their Zinfandel crop that year. The resulting wines, while excellent when taken on their own, aren’t quite at the level long-time Martinelli fans expect. The Martinelli wines remain unique within the broad landscape that is Sonoma. At their best, these wines are stunning. Tel. (707) 525-0570

Bright violet. Exotically perfumed blackberry, cassis, smoked meat, licorice and resinous herb aromas, with a subtle peppery overtone. Highly expressive syrah, with sweet red and dark berry, Indian spice and floral flavors given shape by silky tannins. The smoky note repeats strongly on the broad, sweet, very long finish.

The largest scaled of the lineup, the 2009 Martinelli Syrah Vellutini Ranch sees the same treatment as the other cuvees and is 100% Syrah that spent 10 months in 90% new French oak. Coming from a 2-acre plot planted in 2000, it is the most texturally compelling of the lineup and possesses a decadent, seamless, and full-bodied feel that is hard to resist. Leaning largely towards the ripe black fruit end of the spectrum aromatically, it has excellent complexity with a core of spice, chocolate, graphite, and coffee qualities all developing with air. A wee bit heady, yet holding everything together admirably, this full-throttle, balanced Syrah should be consumed over the coming 5-8 years.