2012 Chablis Les Clos

Fresh apple, lime, white peach and fennel along with intimations of chalk on the nose of the Michel 2012 Chablis Les Clos – tasted from tank – reconvene on a firm yet glycerol- and lees-enriched palate, any sense of overt fruitiness suggested in the nose being subdued, but a rivulet of fresh citrus lending refreshment, and cyanic piquancy of apple pip and peach kernel serving for counterpoint in an imposingly long and vibrant finish. This ought to gain nuance in bottle and prove worth following through at least 2022. I heard skepticism voiced by some seasoned observers of the Chablis scene as to the Michel wines would fare in 2012, given that this estate relies to a significant extent on machine harvest. The short answer is, very well, if – unsurprisingly – not quite so well as in such recent vintages as 2007, 2008, 2010, or probably ultimately also 2011. But considering the consistent quality that Guillaume Cicqueau-Michel’s uncle and predecessor as director, Jean-Loup Michel, achieved in precarious 2006 (which I reported on in issue 179), surely it’s time to bury prejudice based on methodological or even ideological preconceptions and give this domaine the benefit of the doubt even in years when you suspect that a dearth of hand-harvesters might have proven to be at least a slight handicap. Young Cicqueau-Michel cited a litany of difficulties in 2012, to be sure, but the upshot of these was principally diminution in quantity (in certain crus by half) rather than quality. The premier crus – which, incidentally, finished at between 12.9%-13.5% alcohol – are expected to be bottled this September, and the grand crus around the end of the year or early next. Exclusively spontaneous fermentation has been a fact here now for five vintages, but even if the indigenous yeast population is strengthening, Michel reports that fermentations continue to be slower than they were prior to 2008. That said, they still typically finish in January. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Very hazy pale yellow. Reticent nose hints at grapefruit, mint and metallic minerality. Dense and fairly dry; not quite austere but very young and hard to taste today. Suave and juicy but seems very unevolved (this was in fact the last 2012 to finish its malolactic fermentation). Best today on the finish, which shows sneaky echoing notes of citrus zest and flowers, along with a hint of youthful bitterness. I look forward to tasting this in finished form.