2004 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir

The 2004 Pinot Noir “Evenstad Reserve is medium ruby-colored. It exhibits an attractive perfume of smoke, violets, spice box, black cherry, and black raspberry. This leads to a medium-bodied wine with good dark fruit flavors but which is firm and compact on the palate and which narrows out on the finish. At Domaine Serene no expense is spared in the pursuit of quality. The winery turns out some of Oregon’s finest Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. That said, on occasion, a vintage presents problems that are difficult to overcome as is the case with Domaine Serene’s 2004 Pinot Noirs. They range from very good to excellent but are not at the level normally associated with this estate. The good news is that the 2005s, which were still in barrel at the time of my visit in May 2007, are among the finest of that challenging year. Tel. (503) 864-4600; www.domaineserene.com. Also tasted: 2004 Chardonnay “Clos du Doleil Vineyard” (90), 2004 Chardonnay “Cote Sud Vineyard” (85), 2004 Chardonnay “Etoile Vineyard” (90)