1997 Brunello di Montalcino

This was a very highly regarded vintage at the time. Low rainfall in the winter except for February. On 17 April a spring freeze brought the temperature down to -4 °C. The damage was manifest in some vineyards, others were not affected. Good rainfall in April, May and June. Flowering and budding took place at the usual time. Some delay in the vineyards affected by the freeze with the sprouting of new buds. No drought during the summer, several rainfalls in August. September and October practically without any rain and with temperatures (particularly in September) well above the norm: the ripening of the grapes was perfect and very precocious, the harvests started as early as 20 September, a record. A very different colour from the earlier vintages – a much, much deeper crimson with a black tinge – and a completely new label in maroon and gold. This is very much a 1990s wine, all ripeness and sweetness still with a hint of oak – a tad formulaic in fact. Pretty and round and sweet without much obvious Sangiovese expression. Thick and tastes more alcoholic than 13.5%. Still with quite a whack of tannin. I don't think this would look too out of place in a line-up of Napa Cabs! Though there is that little Italian twang on the end, admittedly. Still no hurry to drink this! There is definite heat on the end. And just a little too much obvious sweetness for my taste. (JR)