1969 Unico Gran Reserva
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Tasting notes
It was the first time that I had tasted the 1969 Unico, a blend of 85% Tinto Fino, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, Malbec and Albillo. There is a sense of delicacy on the nose that marks it out from the 1970. Slightly faded red fruit mixes with licorice and star anise. The 1969 coheres wonderfully in the glass and becomes more Bordeaux-like with aeration. You could almost describe the aromatics as “polite”. The palate is sweet and sensual on the entry, a beautiful Unico with subtle notes of wild mint and fennel. This is nicely structured, not a powerful wine, yet it exerts an insistent grip toward the finish, suggesting there is still petrol in the tank. I would not hesitate to crack open a bottle if you have one in your cellar.
Critic scores
Neal Martin
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
The 1969 Unico is showing a little fatigue on the nose, opening up with aeration to reveal forest floor, sandalwood and bay leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with a simple, leather and mandarin-tinged entry. It is sedate, refined but not a complex Unico. It sports a very conservative finish that tapers away. Having said that, returning after 20 minutes, it appears to gain brightness and vivacity, exhibiting impressive tension on the finish. 42,000 bottles produced. Drink now-2020.
Relates closely to 1967 and 1965. Mid depth of mature dark ruby. Heady, treacly nose. Just a little sweet and lacking freshness. Dusty finish. Just starting to lose fruit. (JR)
Toffee, dried black fruit, herbs. If the 74 made me smile, this is making me laugh. (Yikes – there’s an NV Reserva Especiale to come! I might have a fit.) Smoke, vegetal, compost, black olives – an unequivocal triumph of history, personality, terroir. The finish is a second coming of profundity – length, complexity, and liveliness. It’s like being submersed in a sensory deprivation tank filled with wine. All-consuming. Tremendous. (RH)
About the producer
Vega Sicilia is undoubtably Spain’s most famous winery; a true icon in fine wine with a history dating back to 1864.