1988 Mouton (Bordeaux Superieur)

The 1988 Mouton-Rothschild is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years (although it was a regular fixture during the 2000s). It is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Showing some signs of bricking on the rim, it has certainly matured with a little more alacrity in the last few years, fully mature with blackberry, freshly rolled tobacco, sandalwood and mint. To be frank, it does not put a distance between itself and its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin: soy-tinged black fruit, foursquare with a sharp tang of spice towards the linear finish. It feels conservative and correct, although it does not give the delineation and precision that I feel that Philippe Dhalluin has imparted in recent vintages. Tasted at the château.

There's licorice here along with mint, some lead pencil and flowers. It's full and round displaying wonderful vanilla and plum flavors. Very silky and refined yet dense and caressing. A beauty, though it does turn a little dry, always revealing its wood.

Very dark crimson with some age at the rim. Much darker than any of the lesser 1988s tasted alongside. Very warm and rich on the nose – was the château in its California phase then? Tannins are still pretty angular. An awkward blend of sweetness on the nose and extreme dryness on the palate. Perhaps it will eventually blossom when those tannins diminish but at the moment it is out of kilter. Quite a bit of acidity. Dry finish. (JR)