2023 Ruchottes Chambertin Grand Cru
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Tasting notes
A more floral-inflected and slightly riper nose speaks of dark berry liqueur, plum, the sauvage and a touch of menthol. The exceptionally suave, round and opulent larger-bodied flavors possess excellent punch and an almost palpable minerality, all wrapped in a long if noticeably warm finale. This is promising but the warmth is enough to compromise the balance, even if only slightly.
Critic scores
Neal Martin
Allen Meadows, Burghound
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If I had to nominate Mugneret-Gibourg's best grand cru, it would likely be the Clos Vougeot; but this year, it is the 2023 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru that appears to reign supreme, bursting with aromas of plums, rose petals, sweet spices and vine smoke. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's suave and fleshy, with a rich core of fruit, sinewy tannins and a saline finish.
The 2023 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru has the highest alcohol of this vintage at 14.5% and uses 35% whole bunch. For the first time, the Mugneret family managed the vines instead of someone outside the Domaine. It has a focused and delineated bouquet, as hints of bell pepper from the stems infuse the dark berry fruit and mingle with cola and brown spice. The palate is medium-bodied with a powerful opening, acidity to counterbalance the richness and real weight on the back end—albeit without the complexity of the previous vintage. Very fine.