1994 Graham's (Bicentenary Edition)

The 1994 Graham’s Vintage Port, which incidentally carries quite noticeable sediment, as there is no fining or filtration, is beginning to show a little bricking on the rim. The bouquet is very harmonious and welcoming, featuring aromas of mulberry, roasted chestnut, pressed rose petals, autumn leaves and a hint of liquorice. The nose is not powerful; rather, it displays a brooding intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin and lightly spiced with clove, pain d’épices and again, a scintilla of liquorice. Though it obviously has another 20 or 30 years in the tank, this mellow Graham’s is drinking beautifully now. (NM)

‘A classic vintage port of the twentieth century and certainly one of the very finest of the post-World War II era’, say the Symingtons. The weather was very similar to that in 2016 and 1963. Blackish ruby. Evolving rim. Lightly cheesy nose with prune notes too. Very sweet start. Dry finish. Quite burly on the palate and ‘smudgy’ on the nose. This 1994 shows up the purity of the 2016. (JR)

The 1994 Vintage Port is going to be re-released. It has about 100 grams per liter of residual sugar. With a big eucalyptus note up front, this is elegant in the mid-palate with controlled tannins. Sweet and easy in some ways, this is readily approachable now, perhaps not at peak, but more expressive than the relatively brooding Dow's, also reviewed. The hint of caramel and raisins mixed with sugar makes this irresistible. It is sexy and intriguing.