2007 Chablis Les Preuses

Early comparison of Vincent Dauvissat’s 2007 Chablis Preuses with his Les Clos is bound to flatter the former, as here is the essence of that mysteriously scallop-like, sweet, saline savor and a ravishing alliance of richness and textural creaminess with delicacy and refreshment such as you won’t often, if ever, find in another vineyard. Fresh lime, distilled herbal essences, orange oil, iris-like perfume, and honey waft from the nose; through a supremely elegant and dynamic mid-palate; to a finish that soars. No doubt 12-15 years of delight await those lucky enough to score some of this. Incidentally, this clearly blessed vineyard parcel lies between one of the two owned by Fevre and La Moutonne. Vincent Dauvissat (whose father Renee’s name has been removed from that of the domaine, a fact I neglected to reflect in my Issue 179 coverage) harvested between September 11 and 21 a crop entirely in keeping with his estate’s awesome track record. But things were not looking good, he says, until the north wind arrived to banish incipient botrytis and permit felicitous, healthy concentration. Hail trimmed some of his crop of generic Chablis and Vaillons, but left the foliage unscathed, he reports, so that fruit maturation was not retarded. The premier crus came in at not much over 12% natural alcohol and were lightly chaptalized, more to extend their fermentations, insists Dauvissat, than to boost body. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802 (Under the “Dauvissat-Camus” label, certain of these wines are also imported by Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (781) 352-1100.)