2009 Meursault Les Vireuils

The 2009 Meursault Vireuils is crystalline, pure and beautiful. It shows the influence of the cold microclimate in its perfume and minerality, both of which serve to balance the inherent ripeness of the year. The Vireuils boasts gorgeous fruit and fabulous balance at this level. This is simply striking. Vireuils is one of the last parcels to be harvested here. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Jean-Marc Roulot is one of the most thoughtful, introspective growers in Burgundy, so it is hardly a surprise his 2009s are so sublime. The domaine has grown to 15 hectares as of the 2011 harvest. Roulot was among a group of investors including Dominique Lafon who purchased Domaine Rene Manuel from Laboure-Roi. Readers can look forward to two new wines from Roulot a Meursault Clos de la Baronne, Meursault Clos de Bouchere, plus a little more production of the Poruzots. Roulot was among the first to harvest, and started picking on September 1st. Accodring to Roulot, the optimal window for picking has become much narrower with today’s increasingly warmer growing seasons. Roulot told me he prefers 2009 to 2008 as the fruit was healthier, with no botrytis or other issues, which resulted in wines of greater focus. The 2009s spent 12 months in oak followed by 6 months in steel with very light and infrequent batonnage. The Bourgogne saw less than 10% new barrels, while the village wines saw 15-18% new barrels and the premier crus 25-30% new barrels. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2010s as they were in full malolactic fermentation. A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and imported by: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

One of the last to be picked because it’s high and cool winds come in from Auxey. Good juicy classic nose. Very fresh and substantial. Not ethereal but certainly workman-like. Quite a bit of gas. (JR)

Perfumed aromas of orange blossom, ginger and crushed stone. Sweet and soft but with bright acidity and spicy nutmeg and ginger flavors giving shape to the peachy fruit. Finishes with a lingering spice character.