2017 Rheinhessen Alte Reben La Borne Auction

The nose here is closer than usual to that of the corresponding Morstein (a wine essentially from lower down on the same slope) with its combination of smoky, stony and penetratingly lemon-zesty odors. As the wine opens to the air, though, a floral aspect typical of these vines emerges via scents of violet, accompanied by intriguingly musky animal notes such as one might sooner expect from a Burgundian Pinot Noir. The palate is full but not heavy, almost creamy, and nicely buffers the zesty phenolics and tactile impingement of crushed stone. “The Morstein is indeed harder in personality,” acknowledged Wittmann, who does not, however, perceive that as detrimental. The finish here delivers a load of chalk on waves of juicy white peach, while deeply savory and saline notes milk the salivary glands. Too bad there are only around 250 bottles.