2011 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Grosses Gewachs

High-toned, bitter-sweetly suggestive herbal and floral essences as well as intimations of musk and crushed stone rise from the glass of Donnhoff 2011 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Grosses Gewachs, with projects both mid-palate stuffing and inviting primary juiciness, its herbal extracts and inner-mouth floral perfume wafting through a sparely-textured, palpably extract-rich matrix of white peach and lime. Positively green and nutty sprout-like, as well as maritime impingements serve for invigoration in a sustained, saliva-inducing, energy-evoking, rivetingly interactive finish. This model of what Donnhoff dubs his “puristic” ideal for dry Riesling will give you something to wonder at over for at least 12-15 years. (A consensus seems to have developed in certain German quarters that Donnhoff’s dry wines have in recent years been rendered softer and more approachable, while losing an allegedly once uncompromising dryness and acidity. Wherever did good tasters get this idea?!) The Donnhoff crew participated in a massive “pre-harvest” in late September to cull those few but pervasive bunches that had picked up vinegar from marauding yellow jackets or contracted early and unpromising-looking botrytis. “Immediately after that,” relates Helmut Donnhoff, “we picked the Pinots, and then started in on Riesling, but there was no stress thanks to the stable weather. We picked each vineyard twice more, once chiefly for botrytis and once for the rest. I’ve never seen more beautiful grapes – everywhere you looked, regardless of vineyard. Any mistakes I made could only be in their cellar upbringing. It got so warm during the day that some pickers went shirtless. There was no difficulty with fruit harvested in the morning, but in the afternoon – since we don’t have a cooling chamber – we had to rush each lot of fruit straight to the cellar to be pressed, so that we could then cool-down the juice.” As a group, this year’s dry wines are a surprisingly austere group especially for their vintage. They also display relatively full body, hovering close to 13.5% alcohol – half a percent over what Helmut Donnhoff says is his target. He offered a revealing comment this year in opining that “lots of young growers today are too eager and extreme in the pursuit of perfection in their fruit. Dividing of clusters and trimming-off any perceived imperfection at the pre-harvest stage is impractical, and in fact you need those ... call them little scars (Narben), otherwise the wine becomes too polished and glib (glatt), even boring. Each cluster can have a bit of under-ripeness and all manner of things (alles Mogliche). That diversity (Buntheit) is incredibly important.” Another insight-rich Donnhoff observation: “To interpret each of these sites as it is, requires that one operate with and produce wine of a certain restraint” – that remark apropos of his trio of Grosse Gewachse, but no doubt intended to apply across the board. “That is my responsibility,” he adds, “but of course also my great pleasure. (My son) Cornelius didn’t pay any special attention in managing the vineyards as to whether it was Hermannshohle or Kirschheck – they all got the same degree of attention and the same treatment. We do high-class work, and that’s that. So the differences you taste don’t reflect any favoritism.” I debated whether to publish my initial note on a highly promising Pinot Noir that is entirely Cornelius Donnhoff’s project, but since it is an inaugural effort and won’t be bottled before mid-2013 I’ll wait until next year and report from bottle. Importer:Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Very tense and almost austere in its pure freshness. Dry and tangy and minerally. Really ethereal and still so long. (JH)

Lifted and warm stones. Real concentration here. Terrific density. Very reverberant. Chew for the moment but this wine is chock full of substance. Relatively high alcohol? (JR)