2014 Hermannshohle Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
A haunting nose mingles buddleia and almond extract with intimations of the white peach, Meyer lemon and grapefruit that then juicily and bracingly saturate the palate. A stony undertone, hints of iodine, and a glowing alliance of cyanic peach kernel and almond lend intrigue if also a touch of austerity, leading into a terrifically sustained and multifaceted finish capped by mouthwatering salinity. As with the corresponding Dellchen, I have little doubt that this will improve in bottle, but that doesn’t mean one should deny oneself the succulent and refreshing as well as complex pleasure of drinking a youthful bottle or two.
Critic scores
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Dönnhoff's iconic 2014 Riesling Hermannshöhle GG opens with a beautifully clear, coolish and smoky/fumy bouquet of great purity, precision and aromatic complexity. Think of intermingling lemon and slate aromas. The attack on the palate is racy and clear, and the wine starts straightly dancing over the palate. This is concentrated, perfectly ripe Riesling on the knife's edge; it's nicely piquant, highly mineral and endlessly salty. There are notes of melting stones and mineral, with great tension. "The vines are older in the Hermannshöhle, one plot is as old as I am," says Dönnhoff, who was born in 1949.
Lemon cordial, bitter grapefruit and a rich, thick texture. Relies on volume, without the breadth and length of the best vintages. (RH)