2013 Riesling Grossi Laue

This bottling used to be called Jubilee. English speakers may wonder why they heck they changed the name, which means 'great site' in local Alsace dialect. 2013 was a very difficult vintage with 200mm of rain in October. There was some (good) botrytis and the ripeness level was unusually high. According to Marc Hugel, this wine tasted 12 years older than the 2012. Grapes come from the best bits of the Schoenenbourg – though not usually the kernel reserved for Schoelhammer. But in 2013 there will be no Schoelhammer, and no Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive. Selection was extremely necessary in 2013. Lime flavours and breadth and much, much more open than the Estate 2014. Not as racy as usual but long, rich, developed and classic with chalky texture on the finish. (JR)