2021 Ao Yun

Deep, brilliant ruby. Lush, ripe small dark currants and wild forest berries, freshly picked fine herbs, hints of violet and crushed tobacco leaves. On the palate, it’s balanced, velvety and fresh with juicy fruit and dense, well-integrated tannins. This has been the warmest vintage yet for this extraordinary adventure in the foothills of the Himalayas; for the first time, the dryer, warmer than usual weather meant the high altitude plots, at 2600m above sea level, ripened fully and were used in the grand vin. The complexity of the soil and climate of Ao Yun’s 31 hectares, divided into 35 distinct terroirs and 773 tiny parcels, at varying high altitudes, tended by 131 families, is reflected in this superb wine. 40% new French oak barrels, 60% in glass and ceramic vats.

Deep and concentrated but at the same time refined, fresh and complex, this Ao Yun cabernet combines power and concentration from the vintage and place with polished, demure aromas of dark currants, black olives, dark tobacco leaves, cigar box, paprika, dark spices, dark minerals and a touch of cocoa powder. Full-bodied and powerful, with masses of dusty tannins and a vertical yet ample finish. A warm, dry-vintage wine that’s powerful but beautifully balanced, polished and refined. 57% cabernet sauvignon, 19% cabernet franc, 12% merlot 6% syrah and 6% petit verdot. 14% alcohol. It is a selection of grapes from four villages, Drink from 2027.

(Yunnan; 57% Cabernet Sauvignon; 19% Cabernet Franc; 12% Merlot; 6% Syrah; 6% Petit Verdot; sourced from a total of 31 hectares in 773 sub-parcels from 4 different village vineyards at different altitudes - 21% Xidang, 13% Sinong 26% Shuori and 40% Adong – with grapes sourced between 2100 and 2600 metres of altitude and hand-picked over 56 days; a final yield of 20 hl/ha with 51% of the harvest used in the grand vin; 100% per cent regenerative and organic viticulture; pH 3.44; 13.8% alcohol). A miraculous wine involving the most incredible human effort. The winery is at 2600 metres of altitude – almost three times higher than any other wine offered on la place. And, because of that, the wines from each plot need to be tasted at sea level before the final assemblage (to assess them at altitude is akin to doing so in an aeroplane)! The hottest vintage ever recorded here and one characterised by a very long period of drought in the first half of the year followed by much needed rainfall in the summer months, leading to some significant recalibration with more fruit from higher altitude making the selection. Wow! Super-intense and very much defined by the parfumier’s essences of flowers. They’re too intense to be natural in a way. Incense. Juniper. Clove. Crushed and concentrated essences of violet and rose. Turkish delight. Cedar. Black cherry and fruits of the forest. Super fresh and with lots of tension, the tannins incredibly svelte. I love this, but there is just the hint of residual sugar that prevents my note from being even higher. Fascinating