2005 "Y" d'Yquem

Made as Pierre Lurton’s new team decided to lighten up this wine, picking earlier (before any botrytis) with Sauvignon Blanc dominant and only 10 months in oak, not all new. This still tastes quite Sauternais, and has very perceptible sweetness – though of course much less than Yquem itself. On the nose there’s a certain ‘green’ pungency – nothing like the Sauvignon Blanc norm but an element that prevents the wine falling over itself with sheer weight. But this is a rich, full-bodied, dryish wine that should be able to stand up to foods much richer than the raw scallop, turnip slices, caviar and yuzu beurre noisette with which it was served. (JR)