2003 Saarburger Rausch Beerenauslese

Well into TBA range, this wine, from three waves of selection over the course of the entire vintage, marks a significant jump in must weight (as well as acidity and dry extract) over those that came before. "I would have called it my TBA but I could afford otherwise" in view of yet riper material, explains Zilliken. Thickly concentrated but not without a sense of lift. Pineapple, lemon curd, white raisin and honey in the mouth, suffused by a sizzling spiciness, ominous smokiness and a nip of radish. The spring is tightly wound here and the blazing finish is nearly explosive. A bottle open a month was perfectly fresh. Potential 2 stars.