1970 Barolo Monfortino

The 1970 Barolo Riserva Monfortino was the last Monfortino Giovanni Conterno bottled in magnum until 1982, when he knew he could ensure consistency by bottling magnums on the line as opposed to by hand, so the 1970 is the only Monfortino of the decade available in magnum. Available theoretically, if you can find it. I once had two, this is the last one. What a wine. Timeless and eternal in the glass, the 1970 is mesmerizing from the moment it is served. Like all of the older wines in this tasting, it is at once mature and yet full of life. The tannins have largely melted away, and yet at fifty years of age, the 1970 possesses tremendous fruit depth and a huge finish. This magnum is perhaps just a tiny bit less thrilling than the best examples I have had, but only by a hair. What a wine!

The 1970 Barolo Riserva Monfortino can be a life-changing wine. Unfortunately, there aren’t a lot of moments like those. Deep and exquisitely layered, the 1970 is gorgeous tonight, if not as profoundly moving as it can be. Sage, menthol, licorice, coffee and leather infuse the 1970 with striking layers of nuance. All of the richness and explosiveness of Monfortino is there, even in a slightly less than perfect bottle.

The 1970 Monfortino is spectacular from the moment it is opened. Superb. This is the only wine in our tasting made from purchased fruit in the pre-Cascina Francia days. Savory, perfumed and delicate, the 1970 is the quintessential iron fist in a velvet glove. At 44 years of age, the 1970 shows itself to be one of the greatest Monfortinos ever made. In a word: breathtaking. (AG)