2002 La Tache (Banded Case)

I am surprised by how delicate the 2002 La Tâche is, especially from magnum. Bright, crystalline and nuanced, the 2002 speaks more to energy and finesse than the more powerful, resonant expression of the year that is found in so many other 2002s. I like the 2002 a lot, but I don’t love it.

This wine had been double decanted 90 minutes before I tasted it, at the tasting before a Zachy's sale at the Four Seasons restaurant. The strip label says this wine was shipped by Allyn & Scott Wines of London to Wine Cellars Ltd of Briarwood. Mid cherry red that's not that dense. Heady, gamey nose. Sweet start with excellent acidity. Sinewy and lively. Very friendly and approachable already. Smooth-textured with real lift. Lots of fun! (JR)

Tasted at the La Tâche vertical at The Square. It was initially difficult to choose between the 1999 and 2002 La Tâche, but in the end the former just ascended to the stratosphere, while the latter simply cruised, albeit at a very high altitude. Now at 13 years of age, there is just a slight bricking on the rim. It feels a little more forward than the 1999–a stylish and personality-driven bouquet with predominantly red berry fruit interlaced with warm bricks and undergrowth (much more so of the latter compared to the 1999). The palate is beautifully balanced with exquisite tannin, perfect acidity and an effortless, you might say easygoing personality. That is deceptive because it is a complex and utterly harmonious La Tâche that is the epitome of elegance. Unlike the 1999, I would broach this now with an hour's decanting. Wonderful.