2017 Saarburger Rausch Auslese (2 Star) GK

Like the Bockstein, the 2017 Riesling Saarburger Rausch Auslese *** (Golden Capsule) is also enormously concentrated on the nose, where fine botrytis aromas intermingle with dried apricots, peaches, notes of quince, lime and lemon chutney and even fig mustard. Concentrated and velvety on the viscous palate, this is a pretty sweet but highly refined and salty-piquant Auslese with an enormously long and concentrated finish. This is a wine to be served in 20 or 30 years, unless you like this bigger but balanced style at this early age. The wine seems to be less racy because the acidity is already integrated and provides structure for the sweet, stewed fruit, but it comes back on the finish and reveals the piquancy and precision of an Eiswein with botrytis. Tasted at the domain in April 2019.

The 2017 Riesling Saarburger Rausch Auslese ** (Golden Capsule) is intense and concentrated on the fresh and piquant nose that indicates fine botrytis with lemon confit and pumpernickel notes. Lush and smooth as well as refined and piquant on the palate, this is an incredibly fruity and mouth-filling Auslese with great finesse and a lightweight but intense and aromatic body. The finish is intense but delicate, full of layers and finesse. A gorgeous Auslese from the Rausch in Saarburg.

Dusty, musky notes on the nose seem to reflect both site-typicity and botrytis, and those scents are joined by pungently penetrating ones of cinnamon and crystallized ginger as well as by headily overripe mango and passion fruit. My head was spinning before I even got the wine into my mouth! There, white raisin and glazed pineapple join the diverse elements anticipated from the nose. Viscosity and creaminess are partially offset by pungency and tang, leading to a finish that's gaudy but incredibly tenacious and thankfully not excessively sweet.