2021 Sassicaia

The 2021 Sassicaia is one of the great modern-day Sassicaias. Powerful and imposing in its first impression, the 2021 makes it clear from the outset that it's a long-distance runner. A rush of dark red/purplish fruit, blood orange, dried flowers, graphite, mint and sage all build into an utterly captivating crescendo of aromas, flavors and textures. The growing season was characterized by cool and wet conditions that began during the 2020/2021 Winter and then carried into spring. Conditions were varied throughout spring, with episodes of both rain and heat. Temperatures were warmer than usual at the beginning of summer, then moderated during August. At harvest, grapes were especially concentrated. That allowed for long macerations, as long as 20 days for some Cabernets. Aging was 25 months in French oak barrels (95% French, 5% a mix of Hungarian and Slavonian wood), 40% new, 40% once-used barrels and 20% twice-used barrels. One of the recent developments here is some bâtonnage in aging, which is used to build texture. The 2021 is quite simply dazzling.

The 2021 Sassicaia is remarkable for being simultaneously complex yet transparent. In the glass, it displays a bright jeweled ruby red hue. On my second tasting of this wine, the nose was much more expressive than in my initial tasting the previous day, offering pure aromas of raspberry, pretty lifted spices and lavender, dusty earth, and fresh Mediterranean herbs, and as it opens, it develops notes of rhubarb, incense, and sandalwood. The palate is pure and expressive, with well-defined, ripe tannins, seamless acidity, and refreshing saltiness, but its shining pure fruit is what stands out and will shine for decades to come.

Cabernet Sauvignon with 1 5% Cabernet Franc. Lustrous crimson. Lifted and with a core of red fruit still to come out on the nose. Noble austerity! Only hints of cardamon and red fruit, but with aeration the oak comes out more. Only hints of cassis. Cool-climate character on the palate with raspberry and redcurrant and vibrancy. The acidity is much less upfront than in 2022 and the fine, persistent tannins perfectly in line with the fruit but holding it in their grip. (WS)