2002 Sassicaia Edizione Speciale

This vintage got pretty bad press in the US at the time of release (though a  good review from Jancis ) because the conditions were damp and cold but it has fared better than some predicted even if I would suggest it needs drinking soon, especially if not in magnum. Deep garnet with some brick at the rim. Lots of forest floor, mushrooms, nutty and super-complex but no longer any primary fruit. A little bit of coffee. Very mature on the palate with a definite Marmite (yeast extract) flavour and yet still a fruit sweetness. Rounded but still keeps its shape. Cool and fresh on the finish. Needs drinking fairly soon but not falling over. Some olive savoury notes and rounded finish. (JH)

Very brisk, smooth, seductive nose. Smart, sweet, nose that convinces the taster, in the way of a Bordeaux first growth, that only the finest French oak has been used. Gentle, winning texture but pretty expensive (£575 in bond per dozen from John Armit). Already a fine and satisfying mouthful displaying mild, Lafite-like charm. There is quality and vigour here and the wine should have a long life. A good wine to counter 2002’s reputation in Italy… (JR)

Oddly enough, this is the first official review of the 2002 Bolgheri Sassicaia in Robert Parker Wine Advocate. Presumably, the wine was overlooked due to the infamy of this widely condemned vintage. However, all is not lost. The wine offers a rather subtle bouquet of dried fruit, autumnal leaf, forest floor, button mushroom, tar and balsam herb. The effect is flat and one dimensional. And, the finish lacks freshness and vigor. What's the upside you ask? The wine seems to have taken on a life of its own. At a plateau now, I don't think it will change much in the coming years. It's a weaker expression of Sassicaia for sure, but Sassicaia it is nonetheless. Apr 2017, www.robertparker.com