2017 Saarburger Rausch Auslese

This auctioned Auslese reflects a significant portion of botrytized, shriveled berries and was picked out during the last week of harvest. Quince, gooseberry and apricot preserves are mingled with glazed pineapple and candied grapefruit peel, making for an impression on both nose and palate that is at once rich, tart and piquant. Enormously high (43 grams) dry extract translates into an implacable sense of density, which is accompanied by an almost metallic sheen and a degree of brightness that may find you searching for the gustatory equivalent of sunglasses. The rapier, energetic finish left my salivary glands pumping, my gums and tongue tingling, and the sum of my mouth parts generally feeling wrung out. This formidable elixir is likely to be a long keeper, and I hope it will eventually deliver greater genuine pleasure.