2002 Chassagne Montrachet Chaumees Clos de la Truffiere

Light to medium-bodied and detailed, the 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumees is a white flower, mineral, and stone-dominated wine. Its vivacious character lacks the flesh of the Maltroie, yet it is immensely appealing due to its purity, definition, and clarity. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. Michel Niellon began harvesting on the 21st of September. “It’s the first Saturday after the ban de vendange. That’s when I always harvest.” His natural potential alcohols ranged from 12.5 to 12.8%, and he describes 2002 as a year with “loads of flesh, a year to drink young or age six to eight years.” On this latest point, Niellon stressed that he enjoys his wines when they are young. “I like them on the fruit. Others can drink them however they want, but I drink wine to drink fruit. In fact,” he went on, “even though everybody loves the 1996s, I don’t like them. I like supple wines.” Niellon, like Alsace’s Olivier Humbrecht, believes that all whites should be decanted, something that readers should try at home. Personally, I have found that this is the way to go, as it allows the wines to blossom. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 572-7725

Slightly vegetal on the nose, then very open, and easy. Quite exciting. Delicate texture. (JR)