1979 Brunello di Montalcino

Production average characterised by an early harvest and dry but fresh weather. Excellent quality of the grapes, in particular in the most historical areas. Dry weather, not too hot, windy and relatively mild with good day/night temperature differences. Mid ruby, if anything paler than the 1968 Riserva. Sweet, evolved nose. Rich autumnal aromas reminiscent of leaf mulch with an overlay of toastiness (but not oakiness). High-toned and aromatic. Very delicate and transparent. Real fragrance and lift. Not as concentrated as the 1968 but surely essence of true Brunello di Montalcino? At this point in its life I think I'd be tempted to serve this with fish, or certainly not with too heavy a meat dish. This has lasted beautifully; I can quite see why Nardi chose to include this. Very much a wine for today's fashion for airy, refreshing wines. Yet with the thread of Tuscany running through it. (JR)