2022 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier
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Tasting notes
Clonakilla's Shiraz/Viognier is gorgeous, and especially so in 2022. This cool-climate style is a translucent, violet-purple colour in the glass. At this nascent stage, the wine is tight, but with air it starts to reveal notes of florals, white pepper and vivid red cherry, with sweet vanilla undertones (from 12 months in a third new French oak) that bring additional warmth. Lively, medium-bodied and just 13% alcohol thanks to the cool 2022 growing season, it is elegant, vibrant and long. The palate is dominated by crunchy red fruit, but there's a twist of savoury black-olive tapenade on the finish. This needs time to open up, leave it a few years before tucking in.
Critic scores
Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
95% Shiraz, 5% Viognier. Single vineyard, estate vines between 20 and 50 years old. Combination of own roots and rootstock. Soils are sandy clay loams – granitic base rock. North-east aspect and farmed at 35 hl/ha. Cool climate, and a cooler La Niña vintage. Elevation of 600 m. 14 different clones of Shiraz, 4 of Viognier. A combination of 2- and 4-tonne open fermenters, spontaneous ferment. Three weeks' maceration on skins. The Viognier is co-fermented with the Shiraz. 20% whole bunch. 12 months in oak, one-third new wood, one-third one year old, one-third two years. Filtered. 1,500 cases produced. Screwcap. Mid cherry red. Delicate, refined perfume of dark-red fruits and violets. Refined and intense on the palate, without excess weight. Velvety tannins. Accomplished, harmonious, the red-fruit freshness coming back on the long finish. (JH)
The 2022 Shiraz Viognier is sensational, but that assessment isn't breaking any ground. It includes 5% Viognier co-fermented and had 20% to 35% whole bunches in the ferment. Lacy, ethereal and structural, this is equal part Boscobel rose (which, to me, smells of raspberry leaf tea and rose essence) and roasted meat juices. It is sweet and savory, spicy and svelte and peppered by layers of pastrami and roast beetroot. There are notes of earth, licorice, black tea, jasmine flowers in summer and lashings of dried exotic spices. This is affirming and good, so good. Drink it now for Pinot-esque pleasure or in 15-20 years for elegant, meaty, ethereal, fresh, complex, layered excitement. All good either way. This is one of my favorite Australian Shirazes. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.
About the producer
The Kirk family’s winery was one of the first to put Murrumbateman Shiraz on the fine wine map. Founded in 1971, Clonakilla pioneered this cool-climate region and today the estate produces some of the finest Shiraz in Australia and the world, inspired by the styles of the Northern Rhône.